{"id":13510,"date":"2025-09-06T15:36:21","date_gmt":"2025-09-06T13:36:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/?p=13510"},"modified":"2025-09-06T15:36:21","modified_gmt":"2025-09-06T13:36:21","slug":"adios-ecuador","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/","title":{"rendered":"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador!"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Puerto Misahuall\u00ed<\/strong><br \/>\nOn a journey like this, sleep is scarce. The desire to keep going, even as our time in Ecuador draws to a close, is overwhelming. No one complains. By 7 a.m., we\u2019re already in the jeep: through the rear-view mirror, I watch <a href=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/all-you-need-is-ecuador\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Ba\u00f1os de Agua Santa<\/a> fade away for the last time (in this life!). We\u2019ve only got 150 kilometres ahead of us, but Ecuadorian roads are often tricky. It takes us nearly four hours to cover this modest distance. We arrive in <strong>Puerto Misahuall\u00ed<\/strong> around lunchtime and stop for a couple of hours: we grab a bite, and some even dare to nibble grilled larvae of a plump, chubby insect. I\u2019m not feeling that adventurous and make peace with my decision: larvae won\u2019t be among the bizarre things I\u2019ve eaten around the world.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13500 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Screenshot-2025-09-06-151422-450x580.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"580\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Screenshot-2025-09-06-151422-450x580.png 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Screenshot-2025-09-06-151422.png 560w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>In the centre of this small Ecuadorian town, not much happens. Monkeys drink from bottles left in bins. A few men watch a football match on what seems to be the only TV in the neighbourhood, crammed inside a shop that sells everything from nails to flip-flops. A few chickens wander distractedly along the edge of the main road.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13482 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0167-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>So why come to Puerto Misahuall\u00ed?<\/p>\n<p><strong>The Rio Arajuno: A Journey to the Origin of the World<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Because here we leave the jeep behind and board a canoe along the banks of the <strong>Rio Arajuno,<\/strong> a tributary of the <strong>Rio Napo,<\/strong> which in turn feeds into the <strong>Amazon River<\/strong> and flows between Ecuador and Peru. The waters of the Rio Napo originate at the foot of the Cotopaxi volcano, and (alas!) were the first to be discovered by Spanish conquistadors around 1540, when Pizarro and Francisco de Orellana explored them, always with the cross on their chest and the sword at their back, descending the currents all the way to the Atlantic.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13502 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Screenshot-2025-09-06-151738-450x633.png\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"633\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Screenshot-2025-09-06-151738-450x633.png 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Screenshot-2025-09-06-151738.png 567w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>Colonisation aside, travelling upriver feels like entering the heart of the Earth, returning to an ancestral story we all belong to. At <strong>Liana Lodge<\/strong>, we\u2019re handed keys (useless, of course\u2014there\u2019s nothing to lock here) to what will be our home for the next few days: a bungalow with no glass windows, just endless mosquito nets (though we won\u2019t see a single mosquito, thanks to the season), and a thatched roof made of toquilla straw (yes, the same used for Panama hats that aren\u2019t actually from Panama\u2014<a href=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/cuenca-and-the-el-cajas-national-park\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">remember those<\/a>?) towering 6\u20137 metres high, maybe even 10.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13488 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0227-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>I don\u2019t know it yet as I toss my backpack onto the bed, but the next morning we\u2019ll see a group of monkeys walking across that roof, all serious, as if heading to school or the office. They won\u2019t even acknowledge us, lying there on the bed. Just a fleeting, indifferent glance: we\u2019re mere passing guests here.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13506 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0218-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>As daylight fades into dusk, we board the same swift canoe that brought us here just hours earlier. Yet to me, time seems to crumble in this place as we travel upriver. <strong>The Amazon rainforest speaks to us, watches us:<\/strong> we\u2019re surrounded by sounds, calls, songs of birds, crickets, cicadas, and probably other creatures I don\u2019t recognise. I\u2019m certain they\u2019re watching us from the treetops. I think of <strong>Conrad\u2019s <em>Heart of Darkness<\/em>.<\/strong> I know he wrote about Africa and I\u2019m in Ecuador, but this hidden, noisy life isn\u2019t just a natural backdrop: it\u2019s a mystery, the unknown, a descent into the human soul. It\u2019s primitive and eternal, a breathing place that precedes and outlasts human presence. It\u2019s a journey to the origin of the world, a deliberate descent into the depths of the inner self.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13498 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-450x563.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"563\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-450x563.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-900x1125.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-1800x2250.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-768x960.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-1229x1536.jpg 1229w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-1638x2048.jpg 1638w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/KMVK3786-scaled.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>We return to the lodge for dinner. There\u2019s no electricity after 9 p.m. here. We dine by the light of a modest open-air fireplace and soon retreat to our rooms. I\u2019ll never forget that night: the continuous concert of Pachamama distances me from the fragile modern society I\u2019m used to and guides me into a deep sleep, filled with distant memories and invisible ties to the past.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Ferocious Ants, Exploding Trees, and Walking Palms<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>In the morning, our local guide takes us on a long walk through the forest. We move slowly and with great care. I wade into vegetation that\u2019s hard to grasp, visually and mentally. It\u2019s a vast green universe: from top to bottom and back again, reference points aren\u2019t always clear. Everything is damp and alive. But here, <strong>we humans are fragile.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13490 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0230-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>They say strength lies in unity, and with <strong>concha ants,<\/strong> that proverb takes on a unique meaning. These tiny killers can be lethal if a group bites you and you have heart issues. If just one attacks, you might get away with 24 hours of vomiting, diarrhoea, and fever. To look at them on the tree bark around us, they seem harmless, almost mundane. Which is why we should never judge by appearances.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13508 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Hura-Crepitans-450x300.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Hura-Crepitans-450x300.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Hura-Crepitans-900x600.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Hura-Crepitans-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/Hura-Crepitans.jpg 1100w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>One plant that makes its nature clear from both name and appearance is the <strong><em>Hura crepitans<\/em>.<\/strong> Its branches rise distinctively up to 60 metres. Its wood is soft and fragile, unsuitable for construction. But its trunk is the real showstopper\u2014up to 10\u201315 metres in circumference when mature, and in younger specimens, covered in long, sharp spines that make climbing nearly impossible. Hence the nickname <strong>\u201cmonkey-no-climb tree.\u201d<\/strong> It has almost no leaves this time of year; those come during the rainy season (December\u2013April), and thankfully no fruit either. Because <em>Hura crepitans<\/em> produces red flowers and round fruits that resemble pumpkins\u2014and explode when ripe, launching seeds at over 200 km\/h and up to 100 metres away. That\u2019s why it\u2019s also called the \u201cdynamite tree.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Naturally, its explosive and toxic traits have made it the subject of myths. One legend I wrote down in my notebook says the fruits explode to release <strong>trapped souls.<\/strong> Each seed is said to contain the memory of a fallen warrior, and the explosion is their battle cry. Some elders forbid collecting ripe fruits, fearing they\u2019ll disturb the spirits.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13496 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0311-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>The <strong><em>Socratea exorrhiza<\/em><\/strong>, on the other hand, doesn\u2019t explode: it walks. Or rather, let\u2019s be less poetic and more scientific. This palm develops long, sturdy aerial roots that extend from the trunk like legs. They resemble stilts or scaffolding, helping the tree shift or rise when needed. When the ground becomes unstable or the environment changes (less light, fewer nutrients), the plant grows new roots on one side and lets the opposite ones die off, slowly moving the trunk toward better conditions. It\u2019s a slow process: just a few centimetres a day, sometimes up to 20 metres over several years. The idea that it \u201cwalks\u201d is more legend than proven fact. The roots mainly stabilise the palm and allow it to grow tall without a thick trunk. It doesn\u2019t move like an animal, but the legend (amplified by local guides) retains irresistible charm. It\u2019s a stunning example of nature adaptation.<\/p>\n<p><strong>Chicha<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>I don\u2019t like romanticising reality &#8211; because reality is 99% better than any book or film. So, I\u2019ll get straight to the point: not everything goes smoothly on a trip, and not everything is perfect. Sometimes food isn\u2019t fragrant or appetising. Chicha is one of those.<\/p>\n<p>Let\u2019s take a step back\u2014what is <strong>chicha<\/strong>? It\u2019s an important drink in Ecuador. A symbol of cultural identity, still representing a deep bond with indigenous traditions and Mother Earth. It\u2019s a fermented beverage, made with maize, cassava\/yuca (which looks a bit like a carrot), or fruit, depending on the region. Sometimes it replaces meals.<\/p>\n<p>Teresa, a Kichwa woman under 60 and already a grandmother, offers me a glass in the <em>pueblo<\/em> (i.e. village) where we end our day. She looks at me warmly and hopefully as I sip a few drops. She smiles, and I smile back, though deep down I wish Pachamama would open up and swallow me whole. I know the preparation is artisanal, passed down through generations. I know it\u2019s an ancient practice, and offering it is a sacred, communal gesture.<\/p>\n<p>But I can\u2019t stop thinking that in some communities, the maize is chewed by women to start fermentation via salivary enzymes. And in this <em>pueblo<\/em>, I don\u2019t know if Teresa chewed the maize. The chicha is thick, slightly alcoholic, sour, and earthy. Teresa watches me, her face lined with wrinkles that make her look at least 15 years older. She smiles. I down the rest of the glass and pray for Pachamama to open beneath me. No luck: Mother Earth isn\u2019t listening this time.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13494 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0253-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Latacunga<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Returning to the sounds of society feels almost offensive: surreal to see cars, crisp packets, buildings, traffic lights &#8211; even after just a few days in the heart of the Amazon. Everything there felt so distant.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13504 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0271-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>After picking up the jeep in Puerto Misahuall\u00ed, our first stop is <strong>Latacunga<\/strong>. It\u2019s not memorable, just a waypoint between the Amazon and Quito, from where we\u2019ll fly home. I only remember one thing about this town: the <strong>esoteric shops<\/strong> near the cemetery, where I buy absurd items: a magical home fragrance meant to increase travel opportunities; a shameful amount of incense supposedly helpful for love, money, sex, work, political relevance (not that I care about that); and an endless series of anti-evil-eye amulets, one for each month of the year, which I\u2019ll distribute to loved ones back home. In the last shop, they even offer me a magical drink to cure heartbreak. I immediately think of the chicha from a few days ago. I politely decline and step out with my magical arsenal: with everything I\u2019ve picked up along the way, I could be protected for the next fifteen years.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-medium wp-image-13480 aligncenter\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-900x675.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"900\" height=\"675\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-900x675.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-1800x1350.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-450x338.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><\/p>\n<p><strong>Laguna Quilotoa: Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador!<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Before heading back to Quito, the final day in Ecuador turns out to be one of the most unforgettable. <strong>Laguna Quilotoa<\/strong> is, without doubt, one of the country\u2019s most spectacular sights: a volcanic lake nestled within a caldera at over 3,900 metres above sea level, in the province of Cotopaxi. The crater\u2019s circumference seems to stretch endlessly into the horizon, though I later discover it\u2019s just three kilometres.<\/p>\n<p>Two of my travel companions and I decide to hike down to the lake. Four hundred metres of elevation: how hard could it be? The <strong>descent<\/strong> takes about half an hour: there are stretches of fine sand and volcanic ash that make the footing unstable and slippery, and sections with stones and roots that demand attention and shoes with good grip. The <strong>climb back up<\/strong> takes an hour or more: it\u2019s strenuous and at high altitude, so the oxygen is thinner.<\/p>\n<p>The view, from both above and below, is worth every step. The light transforms the lake\u2019s surface into a mosaic of hues ranging from turquoise to emerald green. Everything shifts constantly, as the wind plays with the clouds and the sun.<\/p>\n<p>Standing before the lagoon, I gave my official <em>adi\u00f3s <\/em>to this country. For me, Ecuador remains one of the most complete and unforgettable places I\u2019ve visited in the world. It\u2019s become an unreachable benchmark: between the Gal\u00e1pagos and the Andes, I found not only the beauty of the world, but also that part of myself that had been searching for a more authentic meaning in travel.<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter wp-image-13484 size-thumbnail\" src=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-450x600.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"450\" height=\"600\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-450x600.jpg 450w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-900x1200.jpg 900w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-1800x2400.jpg 1800w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-1152x1536.jpg 1152w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-1536x2048.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/IMG_0199-scaled.jpg 1920w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><\/p>\n<input class=\"fooboxshare_post_id\" type=\"hidden\" value=\"13510\"\/>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Puerto Misahuall\u00ed On a journey like this, sleep is scarce. The desire to keep going, even as our time in Ecuador draws to a close, is overwhelming. No one complains. By 7 a.m., we\u2019re already in the jeep: through the rear-view mirror, I watch Ba\u00f1os de Agua Santa fade away for the last time (in [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":13478,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[133],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-13510","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-ecuador"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador! - Skandorina&#039;s Travels<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Latest article spotlighting Ecuador: from the depths of the Amazon Rainforest to the Quilotoa Lagoon. A journey through mystical spirits, curious trees, and so much more.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador! - Skandorina&#039;s Travels\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Latest article spotlighting Ecuador: from the depths of the Amazon Rainforest to the Quilotoa Lagoon. A journey through mystical spirits, curious trees, and so much more.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Skandorina&#039;s Travels\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2025-09-06T13:36:21+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"2560\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"1920\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"skandorina\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"skandorina\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"13 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"skandorina\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d\"},\"headline\":\"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador!\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-09-06T13:36:21+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":1905,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2025\\\/09\\\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Ecuador\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/\",\"name\":\"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador! - Skandorina&#039;s Travels\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2025\\\/09\\\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2025-09-06T13:36:21+00:00\",\"description\":\"Latest article spotlighting Ecuador: from the depths of the Amazon Rainforest to the Quilotoa Lagoon. A journey through mystical spirits, curious trees, and so much more.\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/adios-ecuador\\\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2025\\\/09\\\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2025\\\/09\\\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg\",\"width\":2560,\"height\":1920},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/\",\"name\":\"Skandorina's Travels\",\"description\":\"Diario dei miei viaggi intorno al mondo - Diary of my trips around the world\",\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d\"},\"alternateName\":\"Skandorina\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":{\"@type\":\"PropertyValueSpecification\",\"valueRequired\":true,\"valueName\":\"search_term_string\"}}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":[\"Person\",\"Organization\"],\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/en\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d\",\"name\":\"skandorina\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/11\\\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/11\\\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/11\\\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg\",\"width\":300,\"height\":341,\"caption\":\"skandorina\"},\"logo\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2013\\\/11\\\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg\"}}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador! - Skandorina&#039;s Travels","description":"Latest article spotlighting Ecuador: from the depths of the Amazon Rainforest to the Quilotoa Lagoon. A journey through mystical spirits, curious trees, and so much more.","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador! - Skandorina&#039;s Travels","og_description":"Latest article spotlighting Ecuador: from the depths of the Amazon Rainforest to the Quilotoa Lagoon. A journey through mystical spirits, curious trees, and so much more.","og_url":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/","og_site_name":"Skandorina&#039;s Travels","article_published_time":"2025-09-06T13:36:21+00:00","og_image":[{"width":2560,"height":1920,"url":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"skandorina","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"skandorina","Est. reading time":"13 minutes"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/"},"author":{"name":"skandorina","@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d"},"headline":"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador!","datePublished":"2025-09-06T13:36:21+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/"},"wordCount":1905,"commentCount":0,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg","articleSection":["Ecuador"],"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"CommentAction","name":"Comment","target":["https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/#respond"]}]},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/","url":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/","name":"Adi\u00f3s, Ecuador! - Skandorina&#039;s Travels","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg","datePublished":"2025-09-06T13:36:21+00:00","description":"Latest article spotlighting Ecuador: from the depths of the Amazon Rainforest to the Quilotoa Lagoon. A journey through mystical spirits, curious trees, and so much more.","inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/adios-ecuador\/#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/09\/2022-12-01-Laguna-Quilotoa-21-scaled.jpg","width":2560,"height":1920},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/","name":"Skandorina's Travels","description":"Diario dei miei viaggi intorno al mondo - Diary of my trips around the world","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d"},"alternateName":"Skandorina","potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":["Person","Organization"],"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/#\/schema\/person\/7b34ec59355e5b2ac1e45bcc432f759d","name":"skandorina","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg","url":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg","width":300,"height":341,"caption":"skandorina"},"logo":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/11\/Vanessa-Marenco_Skandorina.jpg"}}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13510","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=13510"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13510\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":13512,"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/13510\/revisions\/13512"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/13478"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=13510"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=13510"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.skandorinasdiary.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=13510"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}